The fourth installment of my post Slow Walking NZ’s South Coast Track. We had intended to break our journey at the Percy Burn hut, making for two reasonably comfortable days but unfortunately the hut is now rented by the Hump Ridge people and locked (though it can be booked), so that we had another long 32,000 step day through to Port Craig. It is fairly easy going though and the track conditions are generally dry and solid. The first half of the trip is pretty much the original South Coast Track which is quite lovely but the second half has been ruined by the Hump Ridge people which is a great shame.
Leaving the Waitutu Lodge. Saying farewell to the beautiful resident collie, Jess.
Just at the bridge there is a turn-off to the Wonderful Waitutu Lodge. Take that turn. Maybe stay a night but at least shorten your trip by walking along to the Crombie on the clifftops.
Crossing the Wairaurahiri River. Just behind Della is a ‘possum gate’ which is helping keep the Waitutu Forest free of these pests so that the birds can return – and they are! Spectacularly.
The Wairaurahiri Hut is pretty much a duplicate of the Waitutu Hut on the Waitutu River further out.
Shoelaces all tightened up. Ready to leave.
Still some beautiful big timber as you climb the terraces above the river. The old loggers never quite go this far.
A bit of a climb up those terraces.
Suddenly you are finished with the terraces and on to the flat going of the old tramway – all the way to Port Craig.
Please contrast the beautiful appearance of the track here to the mess the Hump Ridge people have made of it closer to Port Craig.
An old tree too crooked to have been cut. Notice how long the regrowth has taken though. It is a hundred years now.
In some places the rails are still in place. The iron dogs are a bit of a tripping hazard too.
Like walking through a beautiful green archway.
The sleepers have been beautifully preserved.
With here and the mementoes of the past.
A rest stop.
Just splendid.
There are several trestle bridges to cross.
And a couple of gullies where the bridges have been washed out. Authentic track conditions.
I particularly liked this last one.
With its ropes.
Suddenly there is the horror wrought by chainsaws and excavators by the Hump Ridge vandals. This is not an improvement.
In fact the hard surface made for much harder going. We were soon suffering pain in our knees and shins from it.
A new (and unnecessary) duplicate bridge the Hump Ridge has constructed
Over a very steep Burn though.
Finally, the magnificent Percy Burn trestle bridge – believed to be the largest in the world – and the Percy Burn Hut on the other side where we expected to spend the night.
Except it was locked by the Hump Ridge people. We could have sheltered on the verandah though but decided to push on to more comfortable accommodation.
You can ring – but not from here!
See how they have cut back the forest – worse than this in places – and the narrow strip of gravel means you can no longer walk abreast. And it is much more muddy just off the gravel than the old track ever was.
Magnificent trees used to entwine overhead. I failed to photograph the worst of it as it had me nearly in tears.
In places they had felled thousands of trees leaving just bare stumps and roots.
After 32,000 steps at last we are at Port Craig and the luxury of the schoolhouse.
Read More:
Slow Walking NZ’s South Coast Track
Long Point Hut Fiordland A Hidden Gem
South Coast Track Wairaurahiri to Waitutu
South Coast Track Waitutu to Westies
South Coast Track Wairaurahiri to Rarakau
South Coast Track Westies Hut to Cromarty
