I know this will be anathema to the LNT set but let me say that they are anathema to me! Such posturing and hand-wringing is the worst kind of virtue signalling. Nature can be improved for the benefit of man and indeed for the benefit of both – particularly in regard to the prevention of devastating wildfires and the control of invasive pests and weeds. I see no particular virtue in the preservation of ‘nature’ for itself without its value to humanity being also considered.
It might be heart-warming to know that there is a proliferation of wild places but their value (to man) at least is so much more enhanced if access to them is improved. I do not care overmuch whether it is forbidden to create or improve such access. We have far too many laws anyway. We should be able to develop of profitable industry in exporting them in bulk!
I do not believe that the government owns me but that I own the government. If it is not doing (or allowing) that which benefits me then ‘away with it’! In the meantime if people feel they have the freedom to spend their spare time creating or clearing tracks to improve access or making small clearings where one tent may be erected near a pristine stream, so much the better.
I have just returned from a few days clearing just such a very overgrown old track for my future use. I will not be posting where as I am selfish! The Fiskars brush hook machete is an indispensable tool when constructing tracks. So far as I can see it remains legal in Victoria but would be legal for those who have an authority to hunt (or are farmers) anyway I think.
Mt Track Clearing Outfit. This is the Ag (dual range) model of the postie bike.
I would be happy to see the game trails which already exist along ridges and streams judiciously widened and heightened with a few subtle machete strokes so one can easily and enjoyably follow them. Furthermore there now exist thousands of kilometres of ‘closed roads’ (and tracks) and MVO (ie Management Vehicles Only’) access which are completely impassable (sometimes even on foot).
These tracks can be desirably yet judiciously widened to allow the passage of a bicycle and small trailer needing a clear path of about 3′ (900mm). I am not in favour of noisy motorcycles tearing them to pieces but a quiet ‘postie bike’ (Honda ‘Cub/110cc) such as I own four (dual range) of quietly proceeding along towing a small trailer at <10 km/hr does no harm.
There are now also quite a number of electric 2WD bikes which are also suitable for towing a trailer (and even quieter). I recommend you buy or make one yourself. You will find the motors, wheels batteries etc available cheaply on Aliexpress or Ebay.
I find when clearing such old closed roads that even with ones which have been closed for a very long time that I can usually manage to clear a couple of kilometres a day (at over 75) so you (at say 25) should easily manage twice that. Five or ten kilometres of cleared access should get you to a hunting/fishing camping spot which is much less busy than the ‘designated camping areas’ so much valued by our bureaucratic masters where we are crowded together like lemmings.
I recommend the initial clearing be done with an electric chainsaw (so as not to draw attention) only resorting to the louder kind when you have a ‘cockatoo’ (look-out) to make sure the ‘coast’ is clear. I imagine the powers that be may take umbrage at such ‘desecration’ which is really only the sound management which they eschew. The eleventh commandment, ‘Thou shalt not get caught’ is ever be best advice.
Afterwards you just found the walking path the way it is. I can’t imagine why anyone should mind the passage of a mountain bike (even an electric one) and/or cargo trailer along such a path. Such a ‘rig’ can make your weekend or holiday camp so much more comfortable and effect the recovery of game taken so much easier too. Vevor have a number for sale (her in Oz) for a small outlay (a couple of hundred dollars at most). I have one I tow behind my postie (ag) bike.
Their largest trailer will carry 275 lb (or 125 kg) ie it will transport the kit-form of a small garden shed say around 7′ x 9′ which is big enough for a comfy wilderness hut for four and should cost perhaps under $1000 when completely fitted out even with a small pot-belly stove for winter warmth. A bit of camo paint and some gravel scattered around the edges to prevent the ingress of fire should (if you add nothing combustible to it) stop it from being destroyed by fire especially if you place it in a very small well-cropped clearing along a grassy stream so it an not be seen easily from the air.
I know a 200 litre drum should be sufficient for a rainwater tank in most cases. I would be happy to see several thousand such ‘Wilderness Hut/s’ constructed here and there in our public lands for the benefit (and safety) of all – but away from vehicular access.
You should probably begin with ‘Debris Hut’ first (utilizing some black poly concrete underlay for waterproofness). This can later become the wood-shed for the main hut.
The ideal small hut has two bunks in a right angle to each other in one corner. This leaves room for the door, a bench and a stove as well as room for two others to sleep on the floor. A folding table is a good idea. Four people can easily sit on the two benches, eat drink play cards etc at the folding table. It really does not need to be bigger than that.
I recommend that it is insulated and that you provide mosquito proof ventilation. A small window (perhaps in the door) is a desirable improvement. Four people’s body heat will warm such an insulated hut in all but the coldest weather.
The floor should either be concrete or fibro boards – as I said nothing combustible if possible. If you use fibro boards you can include a lift-up section in the floor so that you can bury a couple of canoe drums under the floor to store things like inflatable mats, sleeping bags, fire lighters, emergency food etc. Every hut should be equipped with a broom, saw and hatchet.
A log book is also a good idea.
If you build a Debris Hut on site first it can be used for a wood shed once you build the permanent hut.
NB: When you attach the trailer hitch to the bottom not of the shock absorber, replace the nut with a flat one and drill a hole through the bolt and add a split pin – otherwise you will lose the hitch.
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