During May (2026) we returned to the EBC for our fourth (and probably last – due to our age) visit. This time we were (not unexpectedly) much slower than we had been in years’ past. I don’t think you should allow such slowness or a level of fitness to put you off what should otherwise be a remarkable journey however. You can just allow more time and stop more often. Allow time to smell the roses – or in this case (it was Spring) the rhododendrons which were everywhere in a riot of colour.
A welcome lunch at the wonderful Sapana Gardens Hotel (977 9851047074 Thamel, Kathmandu) with our host Ram Pyakurel who kindly picked us up in his own car (with his family) from the airport. Ram can organise everything you may want in Kathmandu and Nepal generally.
Followed by one of many memorable meals at the Black Olives Cafe & Bar Thamel Kathmandu – just 100 metres down the street.
Two mornings later (after a long wait) we were off (direct flight thanks to Lakpa) to Lukla. We were lucky – there were folks (like the Ukrainian guy in the blue jacket behind us) who had waited three days!
Kat
Kathmandu disappearing below us.
Thirty minutes later we were in Lukla to be greeted by our old friends, Lakpa and Lama Sherpa. Where we were keen to begin our explorations with a rather long preliminary loop walk from Lukla downhill to Surte across to Chauikharka/Thalsharoa then back up the EBC to Lukla for the night. Chauikharka is a truly beautiful town and deserves a day’s exploration – at least.
Our host Lakpa Sherpa (above) of the delightful Lama Hotel Lukla (977 986-2864277 on What’s App) advised that this would take three hours – it took us nearer 7! Nepalis walk a lot more quickly than we can!
Lakpa has been a godsend of help to us over the years – he can (for example) arrange flights from Kathmandu when none appear to exist. He will also arrange splendid helicopter flights all around the district eg to EBC and back. Service with a smile. Do visit him.
He can also arrange licenced guides, porters, horsemen etc – as well as other accommodation further up the trail as needed. Trekking to Mera Peak is a popular option from Lukla. There are many other wonderful day-trips which can be had with Lukla as your base. Too many folk simply rush off on the EBC.
If you want a guide it is important you have a reputable local (such as Lakpa) take care of this organisation as the many such people clamoring for your business at the airport may well be crooks – some are, and may steal your baggage. He has in the past saved my life. I would certainly trust him with it anyway.
NB: You do not need a guide to walk the EBC. ‘Independent’ travelers are still welcome. There are innumerable places to stay and not having an organised tour means that you can just stop whenever you want (or need to) eg at our beloved Benkar Guest House (no website, sorry).
The Lama Hotel is near the airport end of the main street on the right. Make it your first stop in Lukla.
Off we go accompanied by numerous dogs through the back streets of Lukla.
Past he heliport.
And down down, down to Surte – note the zig-zag Everest view road which is being constructed on the mountainside opposite..
Della is clearly enjoying herself.
As am I.
The new road has just passed Surte – as you can see.
On the track across the bottom (via Muse) there were many donkey trains – it was like the Hume Highway down there – only for four feet!
As you can see the rhodies were still in glorious bloom – why we went in Spring this time.
The road to Lukla has just passed Surte and is expected to connect to Lukla within a year so that then you will be able to travel to Lukla by bus, bike or jeep – foregoing if you wish ‘the most dangerous airport in the world’ – but what an overwhelming experience it is!
They are building a bridge across the river at Surte and a zig-zag road all the way up the mountain opposite so that you can get your first view of Everest from there.
Coming into Muse for lunch.
Next day we set out along the EBC from the Pasang Gate, Lukla. It was raining, as you can see, but Della was still enjoying herself.
And so was I.
Around Chheplung we have always paused to take a photo of Della and the village in the background. Seems to me she hasn’t aged a day since 2019. I will let you figure out which one/s are the earlier ones.
(Maybe her hair is greyer?) Also Della was carrying the Wallaroo Pack this trip. I was carrying the Qidian Pack.
Looking towards Nurning.
Lunch (as usual) at the Wind Horse Cafe.
Coming into Phakding.
And afternoon tea at the wonderful Herman’s (German) Bakery, Phakding. Only about an hour from here to Benkar.
Till finally (after about five hours) we are once again staying with Nima Sherpa at her Benkar Guest House for a couple of days.
Part of Nima’s beautiful garden.
Nima’s cow, Samu.
Nima’s mountain.
Nima is a fine cook and serves her own home-grown produce. She does not (at the moment) have Wi-fi (which frankly is a welcome break) but she does have the most excellent hot showers – and wonderful gardens through which you are free to roam.
Benkar s roughly half-way to Namche so it is wise to stay there – maybe five hours? However, if you are finding the going a bit much you can take two days to get to Benkar and then another two to Namche – but the last place you can stay (before Namche) is at Jorsalle which is (for us) about three hours out. We recommend the Everest Guest House there which is run by a relative of Nima’s. It is on the Namche side of the village.
PS: We did not encounter anyone older than us on the EBC this year but many younger people sought to take photos of us ‘oldies’.
For more about the EBC See:
2. EBC Starting Out Kathmandu to Lukla
6. Ultralight Hiker EBC Videos
9. Preventing Batteries from Going Flat at High Altitudes
From my previous trip, see:
My Life Was Wild and Wide and No-one Knows My Heart
